HOW TO REMOVE AND INSTALL W164 ML CLASS HEADLIGHTS

How to: remove and install ML W164 Headlights (ML350, ML500, ML63 AMG, ML550, ML320 CDI)

This article will describe in detail how to remove and install headlights on the W164 ML-Class Mercedes-Benz.

Tools Needed:

Plastic Clip Remover Tool or Pliers, 8mm and 10mm Socket, 3/8 Ratchet, Socket Extension

Step 1: Remove the two clips circled in yellow and labeled as “1” and “2” inside the front fender well. Remove these clips from both sides.

W164 Headlight removal

Remove the two clips circled in yellow.

Step 2: Remove the 10mm screw circled in yellow. Remove this 10mm bolt from both sides.

how to remove w164 headlights

remove 10mm bolts from both sides

Step 3: Remove last hidden screw on both sides. The screw is hidden behind the fender liner in the wheel well. Fold the fender liner back to reveal a 8mm screw. Remove the 8mm screw. It is located between the lining of your car’s fender and bumper.
(Pro tip: turning the steering in the opposite direction will give you more room to work.)

w164 headlight removal

Remove this last hidden screw

Step 4: Remove remove the metal holding clip that secures the bumper to the fender.
You must pull the pins off of the metal clip first before removing it. There is one metal clip in each front wheel well.

w164 headlight removal

remove this metal clip that secures the bumper to each front fender.

Step 5: loosen the plastic floating bumper holder holding the front bumper to the truck’s body. Loosen the 8mm screw to slide the bumper off.

How to remove w164 front bumper

Loosen the 8mm screw on the floating bumper almost free and ready to be removed shortly.

Step 6: Loosen the four 8mm screws from the top of your grille. Additionally, you might need to remove six clips attached to the bottom of the bumper (pointed out by the arrows) if you have the under-body plastic or armor.

how to remove w164 grille

Remove the grille screws

Step 7: Remove all connectors and slide bumper off of truck. In our case, we had a temp sensor attached and had to disconnect it before removing the bumper.

w164 bumper removal

Remove any electrical connectors holding bumper in place before fully removing the bumper.

Step 8: Remove two 8mm screws on top of the headlight by loosening them with an 8mm socket.

w164 headlight removal

Remove these 8mm screws.

Step 9: You will now be able to see the last 8mm screw that needs to be removed before you can remove your headlights. Repeat for both sides.

w164 headlight removal

Remove this bolt, circled in yellow before removing the headlight.

Step 10: With all the three headlight mounting screws removed, you will be able to remove your headlights from your car. When removing your headlights, please be mindful of where the electrical connections are and carefully unplug them.

w164 headlights

Install is reverse of removal!

Step 11: Enjoy the new look!

w164 black led headlights

Our headlights look great!

DIY: How to restore your Mercedes hazed headlight lenses

Headlight Polishing DIY

This DIY will walk you through the steps of restoring your Mercedes-Benz headlights lenses. Headlight lenses turn yellow and discolor after prolonged exposure to UV rays.  The use of this kit will remove the damaged top layer and polish the lens back to a like new appearance. You may even notice improved light output from clear headlight lenses.

Figure 1B: Headlight Lens After

Figure 2: Headlight Lens Before

 

Difficulty: 2 out of 5

Estimate time for repair: 2 hours

Tools required: Power drill, 3M headlight restoration kit, microfiber towels, hose/water access

Step 1: Wash your vehicle and headlight lenses

The first step in the process is to make sure your vehicle is washed and that the headlight lenses are free from any dirt, grime, or debris. This will allow you to obtain a better finish.

Step 2: Mask off any area surrounding the headlight including the front fenders and front bumper

This is a vital step to ensure you do not damage the paint on your vehicle. Using painters tape, mask off the entire area surrounding your headlights.  Alternatively, you could remove the headlights if you have access and the necessary tools. On the vehicle this is being performed on, the front bumper must be removed for headlight removal so it was not done.

Step 3: Using your power drill with the tan colored sanding disc, sand off the top layer of the headlight lenses

The 3M headlight restoration kit includes a series of sanding discs. These discs attach to your power drill via a velcro attachment. TOP TIP: make sure you use a corded drill or have backup batteries for your cordless drill – you’ll need them!

Our cordless drill was set on the lower speed setting for this procedure. The sanding discs work much better on a slower drill speed and reduces heat buildup and clogged discs.

Slowly start sanding away the top layer of the headlight. Don’t worry if you notice the headlight looking very cloudy, this means that sanding disc is doing its job. Once done, the headlight lens will look completely cloudy and have an even appearance.

Step 4: Sand the headlight lenses with the white colored disc

In this step, the headlights must be sanded with the white colored sanding discs. These sanding discs have a finer grit and will remove any of the very large scratches. Again, the drill should be at a lower speed to allow the sanding disc to work properly.

After you are finished with this step, the headlights will still look cloudy. They should have a slightly less cloudy appearance.

Step 5: Wet sand the headlight lenses with the grey colored disc

Clean the headlight lenses. Using a hose or spray bottle, wet the headlights. Don’t get the sanding disc too wet. The grey colored sanding disc is designed to be used with water, so make sure the disc doesn’t dry out. The grey sanding disc is an even finer grit to get the headlight lenses looking much clearer.

Step 6: Attach foam polishing pad to drill attachment and polish with rubbing compound

Attach foam pad to drill attachment. Apply a little of the polishing compound. Using the drill slowly polish the headlights. Make sure you have enough compound as you do not want the pad to dry out. In this step make sure you take your time, as the more you polish the nicer the finish of the headlight lenses will be.

After you are finished polishing use a microfiber towel to remove the excess compound. Buff to a like new appearance.

 

How to install LED bulbs in your Mercedes headlights

In this article, we will show you how to install LED running lights in your Mercedes headlights.

You will need:

Basic hand tools and T10 LED bulbs

Step 1. Open your hood and locate your headlights.

Step 2. Remove the back cover of your headlight bulbs. It is a black circular cover. Turn left or counterclockwise to open the cover.

Step 3. With the cover open, locate the running light.

Step 4. Once located, pull the bulb holder out using slight pressure.

Step 5. Pull your halogen bulb out and get your LED bulb ready.

Step 6. Insert LED bulb into bulb holder making sure the polarity is correct. This is really important, since the bulb will not light up if the polarity is not correct.

Step 7. Insert bulb holder back into headlight.

Step 8. Enjoy the look of your new LED bulbs!

Installation of a dual din car stereo in a Mercedes-Benz W163 with Fiber Optic Amplifier

Installation of a dual din car stereo in a Mercedes-Benz W163 with Fiber Optic Amplifier

This installation guide pertains to model years 2002-2005 and specific to models equipped with a fiber optic Bose sound system.  The W163 MCS is very close in size to aftermarket dual-din radios, and this guide will highlight how to replace the MSC radio with an aftermarket head unit.

The head unit utilized for installation in this DIY is the Blaupunkt San Antonio 640.  The reason for choosing this head unit is two-fold.  The wiring harness of the Blaupunkt matches the factory harness used in the W163 and the size of the unit is perfectly matched to the factory radio opening.

Utilizing an aftermarket dual-radio will make the cd-changer, sub woofer, and factory amp to not function any longer.

Step 1. Remove MCS unit from radio opening.  This is done by utilizing the radio removal tools.  You can buy these tools from the dealer, or you can purchase a set made by Metra (part 86-9001).

There are two slots at the bottom of the MCS head unit.  Insert the tools in those slots and pull the MCS radio out.

Step 2. Remove the connectors from the MCS unit.  The model we were working on had the factory navigation and cd-changer.  The Image below shows the connects A, B, C, fiber optic connector, antenna, and GPS aerial connector.

Step 3. Remove driver’s side lower kick panel.  Remove two phillips head screws, and two plastic screws by the foot-well to remove the lower kick panel.

Step 4. Locate factory BOSE amplifier.  The factory BOSE amplifier is located high up on firewall above the brake pedal.  It is held in place by one 10mm screw.  Remove this screw.  The amp is now free.  Remove the wiring connector from the amp.  This is done by pushing in on the two tabs of the factory wiring connector and lift up.  Remove the Bose amplifier completely.

Step 5.  Wire speaker output from dual-din radio harness to factory radio harness.  Pull out the speaker wires from the Blaupunkt wiring harness.  The colors wire you need to remove are: White (LF), Gray (RF), Green (LF), and Purple (RR).

The factory radio harness is numbered.  Here are the pin numbers you need:

Front Left Speaker

 

Front Right Speaker Rear Left Speaker Rear Right Speaker Rear Tweeters
Pin 13 – Blue (-)

 

Pin 14 – Green (-) Pin 15 – Orange (-) Pin 17 – Orange (-) Pin 16 – Dark Yellow (-)
Pin 21 – Green (+)

 

Pin 22 – Blue (+) Pin 23 – Red (+) Pin 25 – Red (+) Pin 24 – Yellow (+)

 

You have two options for installing the wires from the Dual-Din radio harness to the factory radio harness.  You can connect the wires with attached spades that was removed from the Blaupunkt harness and plug them directly into the factory radio harness.  You will have to use electric tape to make sure that none of the contacts touch each other.

The other option is to cut the factory radio harness and solder and heat shrink the wires together.  No matter how you choose to do it, make sure you have tight connections.

 

Step 6. Alter the factory radio opening to accept dual-din cage.  The factory radio opening has two pegs that center the MCS headunit.  These pegs need to be cut down to a smaller size.  Cut about 3/4 of the peg off.  Do not cut them off completely, as this will allow the MCS headunit to be reinstalled correctly, if necessary.

 

Step 7.  Install the dual-din radio cage.  Connect the wiring harness into the dual-din radio.  You may need a antenna adaptor to correctly install the antenna connector (Metra 40-VW12).

If your stereo is equipped with a bluetooth microphone or GPS atenna locate your desired area for installation.  Make sure to confirm operation of GPS and bluetooth before final assembly.
Step 8. Slide radio into the opening.  Install trim ring.  Verify correct operation of sound from speakers.

 

Step 9.  Re-install lower driver’s side kick panel.

 

Step 10.  Enjoy sound from your new dual-din stereo in your fiber optic w163.

How To Purchase A Used Mercedes-Benz

How to purchase a used Mercedes-Benz

Should I buy this used car? Purchasing a used vehicle can be challenging at times. Many questions cross your thought process and influence your decision. What’s a good price? Is the vehicle in good condition? Has it been in an accident? Does it have a clean title? These are all legitimate questions and should certainly be considered when attempting to purchase a used vehicle. General questions aside, what are some challenges and concerns a prospective purchaser must consider when deciding to buy a pre-owned Mercedes-Benz? Read on to find out!

We will start this buying guide by breaking down the models by chassis designation and listing the common problems associated with each model. This will be a several post long blog entry broken down by chassis code. It’s important to thoroughly check any pre-owned vehicle before purchasing it, but this will give you an in-depth guide by chassis.

W201 190E / 190D (1985-1993)

The W201 or 190E was Mercedes-Benz’s entry level model at a time where they had an almost endless supply of R&D funding and told their engineers to literally make the best car they could. By most estimates, the development of the 190E cost Mercedes over 1 billion dollars. Due to this ethos, the 190E has proven itself to be a reliable vehicle, with stout engineering that endows the owner with great driving enjoyment. However, with any used car, especially ones as old as the W201 chassis, there are certain criteria that a prospective purchaser must be aware of.

  1. During the era of the 190E, Mercedes used a very sophisticated paint procedure to paint its vehicles. The W201 chassis greatly benefited from it. Even though it had a great paint finish and good rust perforation protection, 20+ years of driving in inclement weather can certainly wear down a vehicle’s body work. For this reason, check the following areas on a prospective car that you’re thinking of purchasing: the front edges of the fenders, the rocker sill area, the rear fender edges, the area around the front and rear windshields, and the trunk and trunk floor. Also important is to check the suspension mounting areas on the subframes front and rear for potential rust issues.
  2. The waterpump on the W201 will need to be proactively replaced to prevent any damage to engine. If the waterpump fails, it will generally raise the engine temperature, which can cause severe damage to engine and engine components. It is strongly recommended to change the waterpump every 80K miles.
  3. The engines are generally very robust and require general maintenance to function wonderfully for a long time. An issue found on the 2.6L straight six engine is the prevalence of head gasket failures around 100K miles. Not all W201 will have this failure, but it’s a good precaution to check and avoid headaches down the line. Look under the oil cap for a milky color and consistency in the oil. Does the vehicle produce a thick cloud of white smoke when applying the accelerator in neutral? This will indicate that the vehicle is burning a mixture of coolant and oil, which is not good. Also, pay attention to the smell from the exhaust, is it sweet smelling? That will also indicate a coolant burning condition, strongly suggesting a potential head gasket failure. Is the oil level higher than the maximum level? This is a sign that coolant/water is in the oil, raising the level of oil from the normal range to overfilled.
  4. The W201 was available with a manual or automatic transmission. The manual transmission, while not the crispest shifting unit, was very well made and handled the power of the engines easily. There are limited issues with the manual transmission, other than a clutch or flywheel wearing down from use. The automatic transmission, a 4 Speed unit, was also generally well suited to the character of the car and can last a very long time. To check the operation of the automatic transmission, it is advised to put the vehicle in reverse and see how long it takes to engage the gear. Longer than a 5 second delay can indicate worn mechanicals, which may mean a rebuild or replacement of the unit may be necessary in the future.
  5. Wood trim. Mercedes-Benz used lots of wood in the 1980s and 1990s. Their dash designs were very clean and elegant and had a vast horizontal center wood piece and dash trim piece around the shifter. These wood trims are prone to cracking, warping and losing their luster over time. While very normal with any material that suffers from extended sun exposure and temperature extremes, second-hand pieces in good condition can be hard to find. Complete replacement wood trim pieces are available for purchase, but often are too expensive to justify the cost.
  6. Heating/Air Conditioning. It’s important to ensure that your prospective purchase has a well functioning HVAC system. Many of the flaps used to dictate air direction were powered by a vacuum system, with many hoses that can deteriorate over time. This would cause the flow of air to not flow to different locations in the cabin. Additionally, you will want to ensure that the A/C components are in good working condition, to ensure your comfort while driving. Make sure that the A/C compressor isn’t making excessive noise and keeps the cabin at a comfortable temperature over time.

We hope that these tips help you distinguish the difference between a vehicle you should buy and one you should consider skipping.

 

 

How To: Install LED License Plate Bulbs In Your Mercedes

LED LICENSE PLATE BULB INSTALLATION ON MERCEDES W163

  1. Open the tail gate so you have access to the license plate lens. There are two Phillips type screws holding each license plate lens in place.

 

Remove These Two Philips Screws

 

  1. Unscrew the two screws to remove the license plate lens. There are tabs on each side of the lens for leverage when pulling it out. The incandescent bulb will put out with the lens.

Light When Removed From Vehicle

 

 

 

  1. Install LED license plate light bulb. Once bulb is installed, make sure to turn on the lights to ensure operation.  If they are not lighting up, you must flip the bulb over to correct the polarity.

 

Step 4. Reinstall the license plate lens.

 

Step 5. Installation is complete.

HOW TO INSTALL AND REMOVE G WAGON W463 TAIL LIGHTS

W463 Tail Light DIY – How to install and remove G Wagon tail lights

This article will describe in detail what is required to install or remove aftermarket G Wagon tail lights on your G500, G550, G55 AMG, G63 AMG, or other G Wagon model.

Tools Needed:

Phillips Screwdriver

To remove the factory tail lights please do the following:

  1. Use a Phillips head screwdriver to loosen the two screws located on the sides of the tail light covers. The red circles indicate the location of the screws on the tail light cover.

    Remove the two Phillips head  screws circled in red.

    2. After the front cover has been removed, there will be four screws holding the plastic tail light bucket. You will need the Phillips screwdriver to remove these screws.

    To remove the tail light back plastic cup, remove the screws circled in red.

    3. Once the four screws are removed, the black tail light cup base will be loose and ready for removal. Once the black plastic cup is loose, the bulb console will be easy to remove.

    The black tail light cup base.

    The tail light bulb holder.

    4. The Laser Ring tail lights will have a standard 4 wires connection. They are as follows:

    – Black wire goes to negative electrode
    – Red wire goes to brake light
    – Green wire goes to rear running light
    – Yellow wire goes to turn signal light

    4 wire connection on Laser Ring Tail Lights.

    The factory tail light wiring will use different color wires for the connections based on driver’s side or passenger’s side.

    You must make sure your tail lights have the same color code as we have listed below!

    DRIVER’S SIDE:
    1. Black wire goes to negative electrode. The factory brown wire should be going to the black wire from the tail light.
    2. Red wire goes to brake light. The factory black/red wire should be connected to the red wire from the tail light.
    3. Green wire goes to rear running light. The factory grey/black wire should be connected to the Green wire on the tail light.
    4.Yellow wire goes to turn signal light. The factory black/white wire should be connected to the yellow wire from the tail light.
    PASSENGER’S SIDE:
    1. Black wire goes to negative electrode. The factory brown wire should be going to the black wire from the tail light.
    2. Red wire goes to brake light. The factory black wire should be connected to the red wire from the tail light.
    3. Green wire goes to rear running light. The factory red/grey wire should be connected to the Green wire on the tail light.
    4.Yellow wire goes to turn signal light. The factory black/green wire should be connected to the yellow wire from the tail light.

    5. Once you have connected the wires and have tested the tail lights to make sure they are working correctly, you will install the tail lights back onto the car. Secure the black plastic cup using the vehicle’s 4 Phillips head screws. Once secured, you will place the laser ring tail lights inside the black plastic cup. Then you will use the supplied Philips head screws from the new tail lights and secure them to the black plastic cup.

6. Now look at your upgraded, updated tail lights and revel in the beauty!

Laser Ring LED tail lights installed!

DIY: How to Check Engine Oil Via Dashboard MFD (Multi-Function Display)

Check the engine oil level via your Merc’s MFD (multi-function display)!

To check the engine oil level of your Mercedes, simply follow the simple instructions below:

Turn ignition on

wait until the display turns into “—————”

hit odometer reset twice

The vehicle’s MFD will then let you know if the oil level is correct or if you need to top it off!

How To: Change Windshield Cowls On W210 E-Class

DIY: Change Windshield Cowl on W210

20131103_112512

Get rid of your unsightly cracked windshield cowls. Look at the cracks and discoloration on the cowl above.

Have you noticed that your windshield cowls are getting discolored, cracked, or are worn? If so, then it’s the perfect time to replace them! This easy DIY will cover the steps needed to change the windshield cowls.

What you will need:
210 831 10 58 Passenger’s Side Cowl
210 831 09 58 Driver’s Side Cowl
Phillips Head Screwdriver

Step 1:

Open the hood all the way up. Located the two philips-head screws, one on each lower edge of the left and right cowl.

20131103_112533

Notice the philips-head screw on the lower right side of the cowl. The passenger’s side cowl has the same style screw on the lower left side.

 

Step 2:

Remove the two philips screws. Once the screws are removed, you will need to slide each cowl towards the center of the car. The left cowl will need to be slided to the right and the right cowl will need to be slided to the left. This is to be able to remove the cowls as each one has a plastic tab that secures into the firewall area.

Notice the plastic tab and how it is inserted into the cowl area

Notice the plastic tab and how it is inserted into the cowl area

Step 3:

Remove the cowls and install the new ones. Installation is reverse of removal and should be very simple. Once secured and the screwed down, you’re done. Simple!

Finished produce! Nice and new!

Finished product! Nice and new!

Look at how nice and black the cowls look.

Look at how nice and black the new cowl looks.

Makes a big difference, especially if you're picky

Makes a big difference – especially if you’re picky about your vehicle’s aesthetics

 

Do It Yourself: Restore Your Mercedes Headlight Lenses

Nothing reduces visibility and aesthetics more than a set of headlights that have a foggy, yellow haze.  However, you can make your headlights look like brand new by utilizing the right lens renewal system and some elbow grease.

Described in detail are the steps required to restore the clarity of your headlight lenses on your Mercedes-Benz. The steps are simple and the results – simply amazing. We renewed the lenses on a facelift w210 E55 AMG.

Things you will need:

1. 3M Lens Renewal System – Available at any auto parts store for around $25.  This kit includes everything you will need minus a power drill.  You must have a power drill to get good results.

3M kit

 

Steps in completing lens renewal:

1) Clean the lights to make sure the lights are as clean as possible.  It is also a good idea to clean the areas around the headlights.  This will ensure that the protective tape adheres properly and doesn’t scratch the paintwork.  After you have done that, lift up the hood and carefully cover the exposed body panels with the included green painters tape.  Your results should look something like this (click the image to see how the lights looked before we started):

Headlights Taped up

 

2) The next step involves a power drill.  We used a drill that plugs in.  If you drill is run off of a battery, make sure that it has sufficient charge to last for about 30 minutes of continuous use.  Look in the kit and you will find a Velcro drill attachment.  Lock this into place.  Next, find the yellow sanding disk.  There are six in the package.  Apply the yellow sanding disk to the Velcro attachment.  Sand the headlights by slightly tilting the drill and going in up and down motions.  Do not leave the drill in the same spot, make sure you are continually moving the drill.  This will eliminate the chance for any scoring.  In this process you are trying to remove the oxidized yellow layer.  Make sure to sand enough off the headlights so that the oxidized layer is removed.  Change the sanding disks often to ensure proper effectiveness.  Once you are done, it should look like:

Polish compount applied

 

3) After you have finished using the yellow sanding disk,  you will switch to the white sanding disk (800 grit).  Make sure to wipe off any residue on the headlights to ensure that the disk doesn’t get clogged.  This process will smooth out the deep scratches caused by the yellow sanding disk.  Make sure to follow the same precautions as before -replace the pads often and don’t hold the drill in the same spot.  Sand until the headlights have the same uniform cloudiness.

sanding with white

 

4) Again, wipe off any residue from the lights to make sure you have a clean surface.  Attach the grey sanding pad to the drill attachment (3000 grit).  This process involves water to wet sand the lights to a smooth finish.  Using a spray bottle, spray water on the headlight lenses and on the grey sanding pad.  It is important to keep the headlights and the pad wet at all times.  Wet sand the lights until they start clearing up.  You will notice that the lights are starting to look almost clear and like new.  Continue on all lights until the lenses have the same clarity.

Water Polish 3000 Grit

 

5) Finally, attach the peach colored foam pad to the drill attachment.  Included in the kit is plastic polish.  Apply a little amount of the plastic polish on the pad.  Make sure to smear polish you applied on the pad to the headlight, otherwise the polish will splash everywhere.  Using a circular motion, polish the lights until they are crystal clear.  You will need to add more polish as soon as the pad starts to dry up a little bit.  After all of your hard work you will lights will look like they are brand new units.  Check out the finished result below!

finished result finished result 2

 

As you can see, the kit is very easy to use and the results are superb. This is a project anyone can do to improve the visibility and restore the cosmetic condition of any Mercedes-Benz with plastic headlight lenses.